Chemical Peels and Microdermabrasion on Black or Ethnic Skin

It is better to know about corrective procedures for the skin so you can make better decisions on what route to go.  I thought I ought to share this story with you before I go any further.  There was a lady who came into my shop desperately in need of something to correct her hands. The back of her hyper pigmented hands were very dry, rough, and scaly with knuckles darker than normal. She explained to me that it was from years of abuse as a hairdresser when she would normally perm hair without gloves and from constantly washing hair.  Now as a cab driver she is very horrified of her hands and she wanted them back the way they used to be; That was, nice and dark brown, as opposed to black and hard, especially on the knuckles. She wanted softness and youthfulness.  I explained to her the whole concept of doing a chemical peel on the hands and the outstanding results she could attain after a couple treatments. She was elated!  A couple days after her first treatment, she stopped in to show me her hands that were peeling profusely.  She was not amused about all the flakes on her hands but she saw the difference a chemical peel had made. Her hands were visibly 2 shades lighter than before.  A couple more treatments and she would get her hands the way they used to be. “Can I get the machine on my hands so I don’t have to go through all this? I saw it on TV that some doctor was advertising!” was the next question that came out of her mouth.  After a few more questions I realized that she was talking about microdermabrasion. She said that she wanted all the darkness and roughness to go away in one treatment and she thought that the machine advertised on TV would do it.  This was where I knew that I had to educate her on the different techniques used to enhance the skin.

    What is a chemical or facial peel?  It is the use of certain acids normally alpha hydroxyl (derived from citric fruits), glycolic (sugarcane), lactic (sour milk), trichloroacetic (formulated), or phenol (formulated) that are applied topically to the skin. This is done to break up the epidermal cells – the old dead skin cell layer. New skin cells emerge which are typically more vibrant, fresh, smooth and youthful looking. Peels are also done to correct the skin from a myriad of problems. As a result healthier skin cells are produced.

Chemical peels are great to: Even out skin tones, eliminate or reduce fine facial lines, improve the texture of the skin. Certain peels are great for acne, eczema, rosacea, and small scars.  As a reminder, not all peels are equal and natural. If natural is something that you are looking for, ask for it.  

 What is Microdermabrasion?
It is hand held instrument similar to a small pipe or wand that is used to sand the skin almost feeling like a pumice stone when done.  This is another great method to create a smooth skin surface and to even out the skin tone.  Several treatments are normally recommended for a desired result. 

What are some of the questions and concerns about chemical peels and microdermabrasion?  Working with a variety of clients, I have realized that more information is needed on skin care services. I will share with you my experiences in this profession. First of all, let me clear up some of the myths about chemical peels.  I hear this all the time. ‘I will not put any chemicals or acids on my face to mess it up.’ Many people still hear the word chemical or even acid and label it as something harsh. Almost like household cleaners or disinfectant.  Not the case.  Most peels performed today by aestheticians and dermatologists are superficial which means that only the top layers of the skin -the epidermis, is affected. Dermatologists however can also perform peels that affect the deeper layers of the skin. Alpha hydroxy and glycolic acid peels are the more popular ones used. The next comment I also hear is that “I don’t need a peel,” or “there’s nothing wrong with my skin!”  There are things that happen to the skin as we age. Adult acne seems to be more prevalent amongst Black women, while melasma or sun damage with Whites or Hispanics.  Wrinkles, sagging, dark spots, eczema, rougher looking skin texture, large pores, are but some of the main reasons why we should take of our skin.    Some people question which procedure works better, microdermabrasion or chemical peels. It depends on what results you would like to accomplish. Microdermabrasion in my opinion is not best for skin prone to hyper pigmentation (dark spots) or scarring.  The fact remains that it is friction that is applied to the skin. It creates too much skin sensitivity to sunlight.  Sanding the skin too much in the long run will create darker skin quicker if you are of color and love sunlight.  “I want quick results,” or “I am paying all this money and nothing seems to be happening.” Patience is a virtue; if you want a quick fix then I say see a plastic surgeon, or a dermatologist for a skin invasion. Otherwise, be patient, better skin will come.  I say 50 percent of correcting the skin non-invasively is the actual procedure that you pay for; the other 50 percent is your home care.

 Your skin should be beautiful so take care of it, with love.

 Copyright 2009 Simone Robinson, Licensed Aesthetician, Cosmetologist. For questions or comments go to Beauty Coliseum.  You can link this article to your blog.